Separate the seeds from the squash pulp right after scooping them out the squash. Use your fingers to pull away as much of the fibrous strands as possible.

Place the seeds in a bowl of water and swish them around so the pulp floats to the top. Skim off the pulp, then drain the seeds in a colander and pull of any tiny bit of pulp still there, rinsing again if needed until almost completely clean.

Preheat your oven to 225°F (105°C). Spread the seeds out in a single layer on a baking tray lined with a silicone mat or aluminum foil, keeping overlap to a minimum. Do not use parchment paper - the seeds will stick to it.

Place the tray in the oven and dry the seeds for 5–10 minutes, until they no longer look wet. Drying the seeds thoroughly before roasting is the key step; skipping or rushing this stage will result in chewy or unevenly-roasted seeds.

Once dry, lightly coat the seeds with the oil or ghee, either directly on the tray or by tossing them briefly in a bowl. Use only a small amount of fat, just enough to lightly coat.

Raise the oven temperature to 275°F (135°C), then sprinkle the seeds with a generous pinch of sea salt and shake the tray so they’re evenly distributed in a single layer.

Roast for 12–15 minutes, stirring halfway through, until the seeds are lightly golden, dry to the touch, and begin making a subtle popping sound near the end of roasting. They'll snap in half easily.

Remove the tray from the oven and allow the seeds to cool completely on the pan; they'll continue to crisp as they cool.